El Camino de Santiago: A Global Seminar in Spain

by: Ben Stafford

At the midpoint of my freshman year, Dr. Ginsbach, my Spanish professor, told me about a global seminar she was planning in Spain. As a student studying Spanish, I was immediately interested. The trip was a Maymester study abroad, walking a pilgrimage route called El Camino de Santiago, or The Way of Saint James.

El Camino is the ancient pilgrimage route to the final resting place of Saint James. Pilgrims can take many different routes, but the way we took on the trip is El Camino Frances, as the name implies, starts in France. However, since this was a shorter study abroad trip, we were only going to walk about half of it, which was still about 189 miles, starting in the city of León.

In León, we acclimated to both the time change and the culture shock. León is a bigger city, but at the same time feels very small. Our hotel was near the city center, on a pedestrian street called la Calle Ancha, which was very close to the Catedral de León. On our first day in León, we experienced the local culture by participating in tapas. Tapas are a Spanish custom where, with your drink at a bar, they also serve you a small snack (or big snack in many cases!). Each tapa bar has its own specialty. My favorite tapa has to be patatas bravas, which are fried potatoes with a spicy, flavorful sauce on top. Patatas bravas are a fine example of a classic tapa, meant to be shared with friends over a drink. The tapa culture is something that I wish we had in the US because not only is it delicious, but it brings people together (not to be too cliché). Before our tapa outing, we had the opportunity to have a tour of the city, which showed us all of the beautiful parts of the city and cathedrals, as well as their history. After spending two nights in León, we took taxis to a town called Hospital de Óbrigo, where we started the trek to Santiago. 

Our pilgrimage began on an ancient bridge, which dates back to the Romans and harbors a legend about two knights fighting for the hand of a fair lady. This was the first of many tales of the Camino that we learned about on our journey. We first started walking in the region of Spain known as Castilla-Leon, which is known for its dry summer heat and lack of shade. We were walking in this region of Spain for about eight days. About five days into walking, we entered one of the last large cities of the Castilla-León region called Ponferrada.

 In Ponferrada, we had a well-deserved rest day filled with sightseeing and exploration. The rest day allowed us to relax and tend to the blisters that were forming on our feet. But blister first aid was a daily task before we left the alburgue or hostel. We went on a bus tour that took us to a Roman gold mine, a small mountain town called Peñalba de Santiago, as well as a vineyard and winery. At the Roman mine, we got to see some amazing views as well as learn some new Roman history. However, to get to the top of the mountain to see the mine, we had to climb the steep, 400-foot incline, which made the rest day feel less restful! But the climb was well worth it! Our next stop was the small mountain village, which was at an astounding 4528-foot elevation with views that took our breath away. We had to take the bus to make the climb, and it was difficult even for the bus. To get to the village, we had to make a perilous journey up the twisting road just wide enough for one car. In the town, the group split up, and the majority went to explore a cave that they heard was cool, while the others, myself included, ate lunch in a tiny restaurant. This restaurant had one of the best desserts I’ve ever had called tarta castaña, which is a chestnut cake. The last stop on our bus tour was the vineyard and winery, where we were given a tour of the facility and learned how they make their wines, as well as taste a few varieties. While tasting the wines, we were served a popular tapa called tortilla, which is an egg dish similar to an omelet, but more delicious. On about day eight of walking, we stopped in another small town called O Cebreiro on another mountain, however, this time we were above the clouds! And getting into the town meant that we were now in the region of Spain called Galicia. 

Now that we were in Galicia, we were one step closer to Santiago. At our stop after visiting O Cebreiro, we arrived in the tiny town called Fonfria where we stayed at a hostel that is regarded as one of the best on the Camino. At this hostel, they are known for their community pilgrim dinners with everyone staying at the hostel where everyone sits at one big table and shares a family-style meal. This part of Spain is known for its dampness and its rain. Walking through the eucalyptus forests of Galicia, I met an older man from Toledo named Eduardo who had walked three Caminos before this one. Eduardo did not speak much English, so it allowed me to talk with a Spaniard for a long time and practice my Spanish in a real-world setting. I walked with Eduardo for three days in total, and he gave me many tips for the Camino, Spain, and even life!

On the 19th day of our trip, we arrived in Santiago, finishing off our 189 miles plus all the walking we did around the towns we stayed in! When pilgrims reach the Catedral de Santiago, many feel very emotional about the end of their journey, and many feel a sense of relief. The sheer size and amount of detail that went into the cathedral is amazing and breathtaking, especially because it was carved into stone. In Santiago, we toured the city and cathedral and learned about their history. In the plaza in front of the cathedral, pilgrims gather to take in the sights of the cathedral and celebrate their success, and it was a great feeling to be among them.

Overall, El Camino de Santiago was an experience that I will never forget. The Camino has left a mark on me, from the people I met along the way to the overall feeling of accomplishment you get at the end of the journey. Not to mention the life-changing food and drinks we tried along our way to Santiago. So, to anyone who wants an unforgettable experience, I highly recommend the Camino. This global seminar is likely to happen many more times, and if you are interested in this trip, Dr. Ginsbach would be more than happy to provide information!